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I couldn't find anything about this with a quick look and most is in German anyways. I have a very long perimeter, pretty much the max recommended. The perimeter signal gets very low, like 40 in some parts of the yard. The single perimeter sender is already at it's max. Can I place 2 perimeter...

I think this is a bit stupid to even ask, but hey why not give it go. Even with all the damage in the bottom middle area, the mower functioned for many hours as is until it bricked the Arduino Due. <Edit> Oh lol, actually I forgot my other question from the first post. Anyone know if this...

I had a bad lightning storm which completely blew up my perimeter sender. I got it fixed, but now my mower thinks it is in the station while it really is not. When I check the battery values from the arduremote it says "Charge 16.53V 0.00A". So the ardumower thinks he is already in the station...

Google translator really has some problems translating this. But if I understand it correctly, you had a problem with wheel motor odometry and after you changed the wheel motor the GPS started working properly again. Thanks for the good tip, have to debug this some more!

Hi, thanks for the tips and sorry for late answer! I can try ferrit rings, but I'm still wondering why did it start to do this after 2 years of working good. And it seems it only does this when the battery goes under 25V. Very weird. My other mover is still working good like it always has.

I have had the GPS working for 2 years already, but recently my other robot's GPS values freeze when the wheel motors are in use. It's standard starterkit from ardumower shop with PCB 1.3. The mower motor can be on or off, the GPS is working great. But if I turn the wheel motors on the GPS is...

Hi, thanks for the tip! I think my cells can do 2,6V to 4,2V. I have never even tried to go below 23V, because of 24V motors. Is it safe for the motors to go 21V? To tell you the truth, I solved my problems by multiple battery packs that have a whopping 20,8Ah total capacity. I'm going about...

I'm wondering about the battery and Ardumower motor specifications. My battery can run from about 29V to 17V. However the motors can only run at 24V or above. Why is the motors and/or battery specs so that I can't even run the battery to midway empty? At 24V the battery could run for 7V...

@bernard I though I could get off easy by using the 3,3V from the remote pins, but you are right, a relay board is needed. For anyone interested in tinkering here is what I have got so far. my led is a 20mm led with forward voltage of 6,6V and forward current of 20mA I'm drawing the power to...

@bernard Thanks for the reply. I was trying to pull HIGH the pins 6 and 7 on Arduino DUE, but I was only looking about the P10 status leds and didn't see them going on. I will have to take a closer look at it, always good to learn out more about or little toys ;) !

I might do that. This is a standalone test sketch only. Thanks, I will be sure to stay away from delays in real code.

After reading the schematics and some testing, it seems that I can connect at least 3 independently controlled leds to P13.3 - P13.5 . In arduino in same order pins 12 - 10 High/low. The P13 is the remote control port, but I don't use remote control so... Writing high/low to pin 12 in arduino...

So I bought a bunch of bright leds for bicycle and am looking to putting them to my Ardumower to see where it is after sunset. I got rid of their own batteries and soldered always on bridge when power connected. They take in 3V and work just great with the 3.3V from the ardumower board. But I...

@hanoba Thanks. @Fürst Ruprecht What I have read the ESP can be very power hungry and C13 ("power bank") 22uF is recommended to be replaced with at least 100uF capacitor to let the ESP draw all it needs in spikes. But is this not enough, the C13 100uF? Does it really need an extra capacitor at...

@hanoba Thanks. @Fürst Ruprecht What I have read the ESP can be very power hungry and C13 (!½22uF is recommended to be replaced with at least 100uF capacitor to let the ESP draw all it needs in spikes.

Ok, Now I feel pretty stupid. I didn't have my mind in the right place. Your picture is the bottom of the Arduino board while I was talking about the Ardumower mainboard 1.3 . I've actually never even looked what the back of the Arduino board says. Sorry about the confusion, I really don't know...

Thanks for the info. What capacitor are you talking about (470uF) ? I have updated my C13 to 100uF, but has the number risen again or are you talking about some other capacitor. I have old mowers without RTK and I'm about to start tinkering with the ESP. Thanks in advance.

Except if you look at my first picture carefully you will see that in my board the 14 is GPSRX and 15 is GPSTX. I don't know if it is your camera, but the picture looks like that board is very old. Propably the most helpful thing would have been to keep the date of the board in the picture. I'm...

They are marked at least in english version of the schematics. The robot is delivered with 1,5A/1,6A fuse for EF1 and 5A fuse for EF2. The english schematics recommends 5A for EF1 and 10A for EF2. I have a big yard with lots of slopes, so my mower hits often long grass in pretty steep uphill. In...

Hi, the original build -for whatever reason- tells you to connect the speaker to the place it is in the picture (lower right). You should absolutely put it to the one top left! It will not break anything in eather case, but when you program the board with the "arduino Dues" through the...